![]() ![]() Never torque in steps IF the gasket manufacturer marked them "No Retorque".ok to set the gasket with low torque <10 ft/lbs following the pattern, then torque fully, again following the pattern. Never reuse a head gasket, even if you haven't fired the engine off, ever. NEVER use a sealant on a modern day head gasket! (Copper based was good for metal ones in the old days but silicone would never work in any case!) "The best thing to put on head gaskets is nothing" (APRA) One BIG benefit of keeping the car in good condition is that it is reliable besides being inexpensive to operate.Īnyone who thinks all you have to do is pay insurance, registration, and gas and drive on ANY car is in for a rude surprise! Once you have a well maintained car and keep at it, if you average your costs over years, you CAN manage to keep the car in good shape for under $500 a year, especially if you do your own work. A top job or tires can blow your budget for the year. Greased front end, pressure tested cooling system and anti-freeze (no cost item)Īs you can see if you have an ongoing Preventive Maintenance program (PM), you do not have large expenses all the time. Hood release cable (I had the back-up safety cable)Ĭleaned and adjusted passenger seat belt retractor (no cost item)Ĭleaned fuel gauge sender wires (no cost item) Manifold/crossover pipe are the secondary restriction. The stock muffler is the biggest restriction in the exhaust system (if my dyno was anywhere close to being right, it proved this). Bottom line, do cam while you're in there IF you at least anticipate changing out the muffler. Down low, they are fairly close from what the butt can tell. I also drove Steve's car, & there is a big difference between my setup & Steve's past 3500 RPM or so. Josh Q in Ohio did pretty much the same as me, except maintained the stock CAT & muffler & could tell NO difference, so he then put on a header/exhaust system to realize the increases. For now, I have stock manifolds & cross over, but have Hervey's modern CAT & a Flowmaster muffler. I ended up with Steger's just because his had been in cars going on 10 years at that time (I spoke to Josh AFTER I had already ordered & he has some different options). It could be that your gasket just has deteriorated & coolant has found a path to the exterior of the engine.ĭavid, if you recall, I did put in hot cams "while I was in there" for the head gaskets. Obviously overheating & warpage cause more issues on top of the age. However, based on this, I am assuming that 30 years of use (whether sitting or run normally), these head gaskets are starting to fail more & more often. ![]() I never overheated the engine, but if the telltale sign of the oil-cap white plastic thing missing is a real indicator, then my engine did get hot at least once in its lifetime. These were my symptoms.I was collecting air in the top of the radiator & if I didn't vent it off every 4-5 drives, the expansion of that air would push coolant out the overflow while driving. ![]() I am seeing more & more posts about "where is my coolant going?" & "my coolant tank is hissing". All signs proved to me that I was the first to have the heads off this engine since it was new. I don't recall how much warpage I had, but I think the shop took off. When I pulled the heads, I could not identify any locations of leakage between the cylinders & the coolant passages - but obviously combustion gasses (top cylinder) were entering the cooling system. If you recall, my car had the coolant smelling like the oil/combustion gasses, but the coolant was not oily. Would that be because it's aluminum? Does the car burn off leaking coolant getting into the cylinder(s) (white smoke from exhaust)? Hopefully another member who's replaced a head or similar can chime in. I wasn't aware that the head wasn't serviceable. My guess would be prolonged overheating could have caused this issue too. I initially thought the gasket failed but it appears the head warped causing the failure. Looks like the head was overheated but I never overheated and I have owned the car for over 15 years. The intake valve seat was warped because the head was warped. Aftermarket manuals that the machinist provided allow. According to the Workshop Manual the flatness spec for the head is. #2 intake was not seating well and the compression was only about 70 psi. The gasket was in good condition but not tightly clamped in the center allowing the leak. I pulled the head and it was warped about. My car has been slowly leaking small amounts of coolant from the right head just above the starter, about the middle. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |